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Climbing

Learning from Professors

This post has been a while coming, but somehow I’ve been away from the computer for almost two full days! I can’t explain it. *shakes head*

Anyway, here’s what I learned [sic] on Professor Falls, which I climbed with Farzad on Sunday:

– It may be cold on Trophy Wall, but Professors gets hot: my usual softshell and base layer proved way too hot.
– Way too hot means my glasses get fogged up.
– Fogged up glasses mean that placing pro sucks, and leading WI5 gets seriously hard.

Obvious? Yeah, kind of. The forecast did call for only 2 degrees, so I figured being a little higher, and in the shade, would be quite a bit colder. Not so.

In light of this, I am now searching for an ultra-light outer layer that can substitute for my tried-and-true Arcteryx Gamma MX. Preferably, it’ll be light enough to be paired with my favourite new base layer piece, the Patagonia R1 Hoody, which is pretty warm for a base layer.

I’ve already looked at the Arcteryx Squamish Hoody but it doesn’t feel like it’ll stretch enough. It needs to have a hood, not ride out from under a harness, be DWR treated, stretch enough to climb in and preferably be abrasion resistant enough to last more than a season. Suggestions?

Other than my glasses fogging up, the climb was a blast. Beautiful blue ice, wonderfully hooked out placements and if my glasses hadn’t fogged up, a sweet 30m of WI5-ish mushrooms to finish it off. Next time!

Another great view of the, uh, Fairholme Range?

Farzad finishing off the first pitch.

Simply stunning.

Farzad leading one of the shorter steps.

The party ahead of us on the last pitch. I tried heading up the ‘interesting’ right side, but got too fogged up about halfway and had to bail…

Farzad coming up to the last belay.

For some photos of – gasp – me, check out Farzad’s photos: